2.
Sopron
And
we’re in Sopron, looking out our window at the buildings opposite.
They look pretty recent, about 1760 or thereabouts. We had dinner across
the road at Jegverem, which is Hungarian for Ice House, because that’s
what it used to be. The Garlic soup in the cob was to live for, and very
cheesy.
My eyebrow rises in a question. I use my favourite trick when I can’t breathe the air, and hold the glass of wine directly under my nose, so I smell the bouquet, not the smoke. “We’re in Europe”, Lisa said. Twenty people eating in a room, and one woman only is a smoker, who lights up whenever she pleases, because she’s a smoker, so she doesn’t know! I think it must make their brains shrink.
My eyebrow rises in a question. I use my favourite trick when I can’t breathe the air, and hold the glass of wine directly under my nose, so I smell the bouquet, not the smoke. “We’re in Europe”, Lisa said. Twenty people eating in a room, and one woman only is a smoker, who lights up whenever she pleases, because she’s a smoker, so she doesn’t know! I think it must make their brains shrink.
The
Lonely Planet told us about this place, and it turns out to be over the
road. We have not only garlic soup, but another favourite, chestnut mousse.
I love it! Coles and Woolworths don’t understand – or care.
We haven’t been able to get chestnut mousse live or tinned in Lismore
for yonks. Had to fly 10 hours to Seoul, then 11 hours to Vienna and drive
to Sopron. Worth it!
So
was the local wine, which I can’t describe very well, not being
a pro, except to say it was red and exactly how I thought it would be
– sort of sweet and dry and light. There’s something else
to tell about Jegverem. When the two old men left from the next table,
a woman appeared to clear the table. She picked up a few things and put
them on a tray. The waiter then waived her imperiously aside, grasped
the table, bent down and blew really strongly all over it. Twice. Job
done!
Presumably
he was blowing off crumbs. Certainly saves time. The woman disappeared
out the back, looking a bit miffed. When the smoking woman leaves,
he will probably blow her ash away, but we’ll be gone –
finally to sleep at the beginning of our wonderful adventure. |
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Enough
sleep had, we’re up for brekky at 0730 and it was good. Breads and
spreads, fresh coffee, cheese, eggs, muesli, yoghurt. With sated stomachs
we set off for a lengthy meander through the Belvaros (Old City), and
climbed the fire tower to get our bearings. Sopron is a pretty medieval
city with a central medieval square, Fo Ter.
We
wandered around, peeking in shops, down alleyways, around the neighbourhoods,
and came to rest at café Randevu, recommended to us by Piri and
Tibi. Coffee, more chestnut puree, this time covered in bitter dark chocolate
for Bruce, and Dobos Torta for me. More walking, then find a bank and
a supermarket, and wander back to Wieden for as rest.
Back
out again, this time for a big walk in the suburbs, then back to the Belvaros.
Chestnut ice cream, then a ride on a little electric “taxi train”,
for about 30 minutes, having a great look around. The lingo is a real
challenge. Locals can tell we are tourists, and try talking to us in German
(loads of German tourists here, and interestingly, quite a few visiting
Hungarians), but as yet we haven’t heard any Aussies, Brits or Yanks.
It’s quite nice really.
Our room at Wieden Panzio is basic but nice. Our own bathroom, but pretty dated fittings. Old bed (firm though not sagging, yet…). Laminate wood grain furnishings with gold trim are tastefully offset by the genuine crystal chandelier (see clothes dryer, below).
Our room at Wieden Panzio is basic but nice. Our own bathroom, but pretty dated fittings. Old bed (firm though not sagging, yet…). Laminate wood grain furnishings with gold trim are tastefully offset by the genuine crystal chandelier (see clothes dryer, below).
The
dormer window opens onto a small but busy street, and a well frequented
bar opposite that has people coming in and out from 0800 until 2100!!
The locals seem very fond of a drink and a smoke. Luckily, our window
is double glazed!! The view down the street is a quaint traditional European
streetscape of crooked walls and tiled roofs. We love it! This evening
we’ll set out to find a vego feed. It won’t be easy, but we’ll
give it a shot.
 Alley to main street |
Here’s
some words which might come in handy next time you pass this way: Korean thank you: (c)ham saam bela Hungarian thank you: kozsonom (cursin’-‘em, but thankin’ ‘em at the same time) |
 Old Town square. Fire Tower - Fo Ter - in background |
| I
don’t speak Hungarian: ..... nem beshelek modural Yes: Igen No: Nem Please: kayrem Goodbye: sia |
Sorry:
shoy-naa-lawm. I’m sorry: igen shoynaa-lawm  Roman wall 2000 years |
Excuse me (to
get past): baw chaa not, like “bought ya not”
= I didn’t buy you, but get outta the way mate! Hello:
servus (pl) servustawk |
 Old town wall |
 Fire tower |
 View from top |
We
walked anti-clockwise around Sopron and climbed the fire tower. People
have been looking up at and down from this tower forever. It’s built
on Roman foundations. Here in the middle of the old walled city it was
rebuilt after a fire in 1560 or thereabouts!! This new one is 450 years
old. Looks good for its age! Makes me feel positively juvenile. You can
see it’s had a facelift.
A view with a view
I
just love all these old buildings, the archways and courtyards. And the
rooftops. Here is a typical doorway, and the lovely surprise of light
and space within. Living conditions have improved over the eons, because
now we don’t have to have our houses walled from the street.
Oh! We do? Sorry!!
Oh! We do? Sorry!!
I
need to get up in the middle of the night. I don’t want to turn
on the clothes dryer (right), so
I use the street light coming in the window to write down this round (far
right) which has landed in my head and woken me.
stand on the streets and hang around.
I wanted to be happy so I
stand on the streets and sing a round.
I took a little nappy and when
I awoke I’d been canonized.
It left me feeling zappy, ‘cause the
words were in bold italicized.
It’s like reading a map it is the
easiest way to harmonise.
Lisa wrote: The firetower watches |
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| The firetower watches, The stillness of night descends. A velvet silence blankets the city. |
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| The firetower watches, Lest an ember flickers And kindles the fire of a dream. |
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| It punctuates the heavy silence, Keeping watch over sleep, Maintaining order, sub-dominant, Dominant, every fifteen minutes. |
 civitas fidelissima |
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| Then, marking the passage of time, A tonic chime. Midnight. One a.m. Two a.m. The
firetower warns the dreams |
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Sleeping dogs lie sleeping, But the dogs of sleep hound not The jet-lagged traveler. |
 16th century etching |
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